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HAMPTON COURT - A PALACE LIKE NO OTHER

By Jane Cassie
Photos by Brent Cassie

I've heard of a man's home being his castle is the usual proverbial saying] but Hampton Court with its thousand or so opulent rooms is downright overkill. The massive palace nestles alongside the River Thames, nineteen kilometers southwest from central London. Its history spans over five hundred years, during which time it was home sweet home to a number of royals. On this recent visit, while wandering from courtyard to cloister, we're able to peek into a few of these past lives.

We gather with others in the Clock Courtyard, a cobble-paved focal spot that was intentionally super-sized to intimidate unwanted visitors. This open arena also ties together a few architectural eras. On one side is a wing decked out in Tudor attire for Henry VIII, the first royal home-owner who had a notorious reputation for killing off wives. The adjacent wing is made up of Baroque belongings for later live-ins, initially for William III and Mary II and then remodeled to suit the whims of George II and his lovely lady Queen Caroline This should be "Caroline. It's all quite the historical hodge-podge, but with the help of costumed guides and audio headsets, we can somehow make sense of it all.

Like a mesmerized flock, we're led to The Great Hall, a Cardinal Wolsey classic that's showcases period décor. Panes of stained glass, gold-woven tapestries, and prize winning trophy heads all pose beneath the cathedral-like dome. "The royal resident, Henry VIII, loved this impressive era of chivalry," we're told by our story telling leader, "even though he was unlucky at love."

His sketchy nuptial history commenced in 1509 when he married Catherine of Aragon, his brother's widow. He wanted a son, heir to the throne, and instead of a male, along came Mary. She just wouldn't do.

After a lengthy divorce, he wed his mistress, Anne Boleyn, a gutsy gal who didn't toe the line. Not only was she unsuccessful in producing that much wanted male, but she was accused of adultery, treason and incest. Off with her head, was Henry's solution, and in spite of putting up a darn good fight, off it came.

He moved on to her lady in waiting, Jane Seymour, who finally provided him with that precious boy. A painted masterpiece depicts young Edward next to his proud parents, but as our informant reveals, this scene was quite impossible. "The birth of this babe was not only her crown and glory," he says, "but was also her demise. She died twelve days after Edward was born. This picture was fabricated at a later date." It was all about show in those Renaissance days and what better way to embellish a story than through paintings. Based on Henry's trim waistline, this canvas had been tweaked in more ways than one -clearly a weight watcher's version of this normally large chap.

Catherine Howard was the fifth fair maiden in this King's matrimonial line-up. Like a couple of others, she made the fatal mistake of playing the field and in 1541 was charged with treason. Knowing full well her fate was doomed, she made a vain attempt to run to the King's chambers and plead for her life. But before she could reach his private quarters, the guards dragged her back behind locked doors, screaming to high heaven.

"These desperate shrieks for help can be heard to this day," we're told by our guide as we wander along the Haunted Gallery. I gaze at the oil masterpieces that line the walls. From within their gilded frames, the setting looks relaxed, serene. Not so, if you were hooked up with Henry.

We wind our way through the Tudor kitchens, a culinary gallery that could satiate as many as six hundred hungry monarchs, peer into the posh apartments of King William III where we get the scoop on more regal tales, and eventually make our way out to the sixty garden acres that are ablaze with colour. As well as countless bulbs and plants, this garden hosts more than eight thousand trees. While kids of all ages make a dash for the garden maze, I'm lured to the world's oldest and largest Great Vine -an amazing arboretum that has produced centuries of Black Hamburg grapes and, in turn, many a fine wine to toast those royal bloodlines.

Sidebar:

Official London Website http://eu.visitlondon.com

Official Britain website http://www.visitbritain.com/VB3-en-CA/index.aspx

Where to stay:

MS Tours & Travels LTD
Regent House
24-25 Nutford Place, Marble Arch
London W1H 5YN
Tel No: +44 207 569 3280
Fax: +44 207 569 3282
reservations@mstravels.com
www.mstravels.com

Photos by Brent Cassie
1. Hampton Court nestles alongside the River Thames
2. A costumed guide begins the tour in the Clock Courtyard
3. Tudor kitchens could satiate as many as six hundred hungry monarchs
4. Hampton Court Grand staircase
5. Hampton Court Guard Room
6. Hampton Court Garden

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