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CRUISING THE RIDEAU
By Jane Cassie
Images by Brent Cassie
For Travel Writers' Tales

What unique waterway bridges two Canadian cities, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is one of the most beautiful places on earth? Answer: Ontario's Rideau Canal. The 202 km (126 mile) channel flows continuously from Kingston to Ottawa, just as it did when it was built back in 1832. The series of lakes, rivers and dams are linked by forty-seven locks at twenty-four stations, most of which are still operated by winches, chains and manpower. During this cruise we travel from Perth to Jones Falls and the entire way are treated to a journey back in time.


[1. Captain Andy Neeteson tells us every historical tid-bit along the way]

With more than a dozen years touring experience under his epaulettes, Captain Andy Neeteson, operator of 1000 Islands & Seaway Cruises, knows every historical tid-bit and treasure. "The Rideau is a story of hopes and dreams, disappointment and tragedy," he states, as we ply effortlessly by campgrounds and posh homes that pepper the canal's reed-choked shoreline. "It's also an epic part of Canada's heritage."


[2. Upper Beveridges lock]

We discover that after the War of 1812, British mastermind, Colonel John By was commissioned to oversee the construction of this canal, a defensible waterway that could be used in the event of an American invasion. He designed gated chambers (locks) so that boats could navigate the varying water elevations. When filled, the vessels would float up to a higher level. When drained, they'd descend to a lower one. And neighboring weirs would deal with any excess.

Over the day we test out this bathtub theory at six locks-rising in some, sinking in others, a ten minute process that moves a few hundred thousand gallons of water. And beyond every park-like station, we're treated to new ventures and vistas: trout-filled lakes, marshy wetlands and sliver-thin canals, all etched out of limestone and granite-hard Canadian Shield. It's an aquatic route of untarnished beauty with a colourful past.


[3. Gliding through a sliver-thin canal]

"As brilliant as Colonel By was, he couldn't manage this feat on his own," Andy continues. "Hordes of unemployed Irish arrived armed with picks and shovels-all for two shillings of pay a day. But they didn't know what they were in for."

Long work days, frigid winters and atrocious conditions would have been challenging enough in this untamed wilderness. Add malaria, dysentery and unruly dynamite to the mix and it certainly raised the death toll. In spite of the strife, it only took determined Colonel By five years to complete the task-yet it was all for naught. The threat of war had then passed and the route was no longer needed. And when By disclosed that he had spent five times more than the initial budget, he became a laughing stock-all the way to his grave.


[4. Operating the locks at Jones Falls]

Our final destination point is Jones Falls, one of the largest engineering marvels en route. Four locks need to be navigated at this station to conquer the water levels that span eighteen meters. A blacksmith shop, lockmaster's home, and visitors centre are featured along a self-guided tour, and topping it off (or holding it back) is a stone arch dam that supports the powerful force of Sand Lake.


[5. Whispering Wall was once coined the Seventh Wonder Of The World]

This amazing wall of limestone spans 107 meters, is 19.5 meters high and was coined by its makers as the "Seventh Wonder Of The World." The concave shape also has an unusual acoustic quality, dubbing it as The Whispering Wall. I prove there's truth to this fact while quietly sharing a secret with my husband who is standing a hundred meters away.

[6. Jane and Brent with historical Hotel Kenney beyond]

History also lives on at nearby Hotel Kenney. The yellow clapboard beauty that looks right out of Nantucket has been welcoming guests to its shoreline locale since 1877. We book a night in one of the comfy lakeshore rooms and while enjoying a little down time, great food and legendary service, take another step back in time!

WHEN YOU GO:

Another historical must-visit along the Rideau:

Doner Studio at the Mill - This is not your everyday mill! Randal Doner's handcrafted metal sculptures and whimsical garden art unite with a museum full of memorabilia at this historic 1865 grist mill located at the picturesque site of Lower Brewers Lock. http://www.galleryd.ca/

Where to Stay:

Perth Manor Boutique Hotel - www.perthmanor.com
Reservations: 613-264-0050 #1
info@perthmanor.com
Hotel Kenney - www.hotelkenney.com
Toll Free: 1-866-KENNEYS (536-6397)
hotelk@rideau.net

For More Information :

Rideau Heritage Route www.rideauheritageroute.ca
1000 Islands & Seaway Cruises www.1000islandscruises.com

PHOTOS:

1. Captain Andy Neeteson tells us every historical tid-bit along the way
2. Upper Beveridges lock
3. Gliding through a sliver-thin canal
4. Operating the locks at Jones Falls
5. Whispering Wall was once coined the Seventh Wonder Of The World
6. Jane and Brent with historical Hotel Kenney beyond

 


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